African Beads In Context

Cultural and bead development

Traditionally Christen and Muslims saw our personal adornment as tools of the savage uncivilized, superstition, backward dumb African We communicated with our adornment, textiles dancing, drumming, sculpture etc .We were obsessed with communicating, everything
around us was there to reinforce the culture concepts.

A visual language of symbolism, colors and graphic designs, reminding us of our systems of thought and philosophy. Sending messages to Nyama, fighting off Nyama that may have been trying to do harm and to communicate with the member of the secret society and community.

Beads concealed and revealed information beads have been used in Africa for thousand of years. Beads tell the story of many live, communicating value and express rank, etc. their durability, portability and universal appeal have made beads a recognized currency, having passed through different hands, beads reveal Ourstory.

We recognize one another by our beads and adornment, different cultures, families, lineage, occupations, age and marital status was revealed by our personal adornment and sometime understood only by the initiated.

The Zulu Nation

The Zulu created a symbolic language with There beads and beadworks using bone Stones, wood, seeds, horn, metals, shells, nuts and European Glass beads. The glass beads aloud the Zulu to master their natural scene for color and designs, when Shake Zulu became chief of the Zulu he ask that all beads come direct to him. Shaka made beads an integrated part of Zulu social life and the royal court, beads were admired for their beauty, but they were more than mere adornment they had been elevated to a visual language.

The size, shape, arrangement and color of the beads
indicated one social statue and personal achievements. The design and color indicate a male or female, beads distinguish the young from the elders, the married from the unmarried, beads separated members of the community from the royalty, the diviners and the healers were recognized by there beads and talisman, beads were used in everyday dress.

The beadworks worn today are a continuation of this beadwork, started over two hundred years ago. In the rural area the split between families and the communities is where Christianity is the dominant form of worship, beadworks has all but died out. The reason for this is historical beadworks was associated by the Europeans with heathen and ideal worshiping and converts were encouraged to stop wear or making beadworks. It is important to emphasize that at the height of the Zulu empire beads had Considerable economic value.

The Congo

Young girls wear beaded head band as part of their initiation into a secret societies, the spiral design on the bands represent the eye of an earth Nyama, the triangles designs are doors for other Nyama to enter. The beads colors are yellow, orange, white, red and black.

The Baluba People

The diviner’s possession society wears a similar head band. They are best known for their beaded sculpture board called Lakasa, a rectangular board often with an African head carved on the top with beads fixed in a random pattern on the flat surface.

It serves as an initiation tool for the Mbudya society and as a reminder about their past. The Baluba also made female torsos often of hippo and wart hog ivory; they measure about five to six inches long. and traditional women’s clothing included one or more string of beads round the hips, which might include a fetish to ensure fertility and easy childbirth.

The Penda People

Of the Democratic Republic of the Congo Chiefs wear a crowns with two lateral horns embellish with beads .for protection.

The Bayaka people

Have a similar crown in the eastern Congo Region and necklaces made with ten so-called eye beads, for protection agency Nyama or ten chevron beads for status and good luck, worn by chief, separately or together with leopard or African teeth.

Beads served as a status marker, a sword with a beaded hilt belonging to a chief, his staff or headrest might be enhanced with beads, a sculpture might have beads to show it’s important or as a thank you offering to the ancestor represented, sometime masks were embellish with beads and cowries shells.

Democratic Republic of the Congo

Beads are often strung in a ticklish ralphia cord, they tend to be rather large beads with big perforated holds, the beads are round or oval shape, white opalescent and blue annular beads, mostly blue short drawn beads, in shades of blue.

They may come strung on ralphia in bunches for currency. Beads may be on a long multiple string as a woman’s waistband, white, turquoise, mid blue and royal or navy blue were the favorite colors combination of black, red and yellow are now popular colors.

Democratic Republic of the Congo

Beads are often strung in a ticklish ralphia cord, they tend to be rather large beads with large holds, the beads are round or
oval shape, white and shades of blue. They may come strung on ralphia in bunches for currency. Beads may be on a long multiple string as a woman’s waistband, white, turquoise, light-blue and royal or navy blue were the favorite colors

The Fali, Adamawa and Dowayo

Of Northern Nigeria and Cameroon, a man will make a doll for his bride to ensure her fecundity; The doll is put in a corner of the house after the first child’s birth. The dolls were made of corn cob and adorner with beads others are more naturalistic. Beads corsets and back skirts were worn by women during festival; the people went out to the bush to cut grass for their chief’s horses and held the dance on their return only local people could take part in the festivals.

Basis Use of Beads in Ghana

Beads play a very important roles in the social and culture lifestyle of our people, when beads are used attention is paid to their shape, size, designs, color and material. In everyday life women men and children wear beads, made from stones,
bone, wood, ivory, iron, glass etc. Beads are visibly displayed around the neck, wrist, waist, ankles, arms, finagles, head and clothing.

Female may wear beads on one part of the body for a lifetime example female begins to use waist beads from early childhood. The Ghanaian myth said that a bead was put in water and giving to the accused to swallow should he or she tell a lie the bead would choke and kill him or her. Some
believed that magic could be transferred from strangers usually from an older woman to a younger one in the form of a bead as a gift. Female knew that waist beads help form their body into a particular shape and adult women wear beads to sexually stimulate the male.

Puberty

For females to be initiated into adulthood among certain ethnic group they must go thought puberty rituals, these series of initiations comprise of instructions and games. culminating with the adornment of beads, worn around the
wrist, neck, waist, arms and legs. These beads represent new status of girl’s families.

Pregnancy

The Ghanaian was aware of the power or danger of Nyama before birth. Therefore beads and fetishes were used to protect against the powder of Nyama doing pregnancy charms and amulets are worn on the wrist, ankle, neck and waist. The
pregnant woman wear colorful beads until the baby is borne the babies are adorn with armlet and legless made from ralphia, for protection, before the child is a brought outside of the house, on the day of the naming celebration, beads mixed with other charms, replace the armlets and legless.

Mother ties beads at the major joints of the child, their waist, wrist, leg and neck she is particular about this especially when the child is a girl. One other reason why babies are adorn with beads at the waist is to enable mom to monitor the growth rate of the child. If the string of beads are Loose mom will know that all is not well with her child. This technique was practiced thru out Africa

Asante of Ghana

The people were known for there abundant of “African Trade” beads and local made of stone, gold and local glass
beads made by the powder glass process. Trade beads were in readily available in the market place because of the wealth of exporting and importing activities this enabled the Asantehene and other Ghanaian rulers to acquire the expense
trade beads and other trade beads imported to Africa in extremely large numbers, quantity and variety no other county on Earth accepted as many beads Africans. A
great deal of the Ghanaian culture relics was adorned with trade beads, items such as bracelets, anklets, necklaces, waist
beads, metal or wood sculptures, umbrella tops, divination tools. Etc

In Ghana

Beads such as Bodom which are known to possess fertility qualities are never left out of the strand of heavy and colorful beads around the girls necks. Usually the colors of the beads are yellow red and brown.

Among the Krobo and Akans these colors are though to signify maturity, the participating girls are therefore adorned with beads of these colors, to symbolize their maturity and readiness for adult life and marriage, beads help to make this customary ritual highly symbolic and colorful There were many countries that developed Elaborate beadworks, Ghana, Nigeria, The Cameroon, The DRC, Kenya, Swaziland and South Africa. The Chiefs collected the beadworks through trading and tribute, the keeper of the beadwork was the reasonability of the medical man. Beadwork was restricted to an elite minority, but beads as charm, talisman and fetishes on the body and clothing was worn by other members of the community.

Northern Nigeria and the Cameroon

Men made dolls for their brides to ensure her fidelity, the doll s are place in a corner of the house, after the first child is born. The dolls were made from corn cobs and adorned with beads. Beads used in the Cameroon fall into two group, one is that of the long cylinder beads which are usually dark blue, dull terra cotta red or white and the Chevron beads.

The Chevron bead is the king of beads, believed to have come from the Earth, some as large as three inches worn by the chief as a necklace also other people with rank wore them also. The other group includes the round seed beads found through out west and east Africa, or smaller cylinder beads, beads are also used to cover sculptures with shade of white, red, pink, green, yellow and orange.

Black or blue is the color of night and the bond between the ancestors and transformation and it symbolize purity, red is the color of blood and life. The cowry shell were used as sign of wealth and prestige especially on thrones and stools, because of there magical powder.

The designs were stylized and geometrical, often symbolic, the leopard is the emblem of royalty, the snake symbolized royal power and the ability to attack on two fronts, the frog symbolized fertility and cleverness and the spider representing a link with the ancestors and wisdom. The beadwork of the Cameroon is used to cover wood sculptures and other articles, the right to use such beaded objects was reserved for the chief or family and retainers.

Yoruba Beadwork

Beads are associated with royalty and Nyama which are often integrated Yoruba chiefs, have a selection of titles to represent. The beaded crowns are the major component of his regalia the 18th century crowns were simple in design, embellished with cowries shell, jasper stone or coral beads made locally.

The crown became conical with a bird at the top and other places on the crown beaded faces were on the side of the crown and a heavily beaded fringe screened the chief face. The beaded faces are images of the chief’s ancestors and as a symbol of the all seeing ability of the chief.

The bird symbolize Okin the royal bird, when the chief face is veiled he is no longer a chief, he is now a God and it is death to look at his face. and his feet are not allowed to touch the floor or ground he must used beaded footwear and a beaded footstool is provide he must avoid looking inside his crown, because Nyama were suppose to have house in there beadwork were made by specialist.

Beadwork is not only used on royal crowns and regalia, it played an important part in adoring special items, diviner tools, necklaces, dance panels, ritual staffs, fan and clothing for the Ibeji twine. The Ibeji are wooden figures about 10 inches high, carved to represent one of both of the twines The Yoruba have an exceptional incidence of twin birth( 45 per 1000) with perhaps half of those the hereditary fraternal twin birth. These fetishes were carved upon the transformation of one or a pair of twines or both of the twines who have made his or her transformation in infancy.

The mother and surviving twine look after this carving by feeding it, rubbing it and dressing it in beads, a round the waist, neck and wrist, if the Ibeji came from a chiefly family the beads will not be just strung around the neck or waist but a densely beaded all enveloping coat would be provided.

Since the beads colors and the twins are associated with Shango the God of thunder; Zigzag patterns in red and white beads are common certain colors belonging to certain Nyama, such as yellow and green with Ife divination.

Kalabari of Nigeria

Used imported glass beads and coral beads which are feature in the costume that women wear during the Iria Bo rituals, these cover the period from puberty to the birth of the first child and the sequence of ceremonies are acompus by different sets of glass and coral beads, ornaments and clothing.

Which follow stick rules and are also a means of displaying family wealth? Crowns decorated with coral beads, several large coral beads on necklaces, arms ornaments, heart shape pendants covered with coral beads and coral beaded staffs are among the regalia of a fully graduated Iria Bo, together with the best clothing that she is entitled to wear.

In the Cameroon, Chad and Nigeria

Where traditional practices survived the beaded apron is an item found over much of this area. Seed beads of various colors are used to make the Catch-Sex or public aprons; they are made and worn by the Tiv and Kirdi women. The men wear iron, copper, brass and bronze tongue-like pendants; they are worn together with round beads made from brass, copper or iron, for good luck and protection in Chad and the Cameroon. iron is revered for it magical powders and ability to compete with Nyama

Democratic Republic Of The Congo

Beads are often strung in a ticklish ralphia cord, they tend to be rather large beads with large holds, the beads are round or
oval shape, in white and shades of blue colors They may come strung on ralphia in bunches for currency. Beads may
be on a long multiple string as a woman’s waistband, white, turquoise, light-blue and royal or navy blue were the favorite colors of the beads

The Kuba People

Bwantshy costume the only one reserved exclusively for the resigning chief weighting more than 116 lbs., it is only worn for one day, to establish the continuing authority of the chief, nearly fifty items make up this costume, which includes an elaborate tunic, legging, large necklaces, long ceremonial beaded belt with twenty to thirty beaded pendants, elaborate head dress with feathers on top, an artificial beaded beard, cowry shells adorn the costume, numerous beaded armlets and anklets, brass gloves and beaded shoes etc.

The Kuba people had a verity of costumes with beads and cowry shell most could only be worn by nobles of officials of certain rank, infringement attracts a severer penalty. Before the 20th century royal display consisted of ralphia clothing, ivory, brass anklets and armlets, leopard skin clothing, carved stools, drinking horns, wood cup, pipes and sword handle The Kuba people waashambooy mask topped by a stylized elephant trunk is well known, they are well known and famous for their beaded masks.

The Baluba People

Diviner’s possession society wears a similar head band, They are best known for their beaded sculptured board called Lukasa, a rectangular board often with an African head carved on the top with beads, fixed in a random pattern on the flat surfaces.

It serves as an initiation tool for the Mbudya society and as a reminder about our past, they also make female torsos often of hippo and wart hog ivory, about five to six inches long and traditional women’s clothing included one or more string of beads round the hips, which might include a fetish to ensure fertility and easy childbirth.

The Penda People Chiefs

Have a crown with two lateral horns and it is embellish with beads.

The Bayaka People

Have a similar crown in the eastern Congo area and necklaces made with ten so-called eye beads, for protection agency Nyama, or ten Chevron beads for status and good luck, worn by chief, separately or together with leopard or human teeth. Beads served as status markers, a sword with a beaded hilt belonged to a chief, his staff or headrest might be enhanced with beads.

A sculpture might have beads to show it’s important or as a thank you offering to the ancestor represented, sometime mask were embellish with beads and cowries shells, the waashambooy mask topped by stylized elephant trunk is well known. The Kuba people are famous for their beaded masks.

The Congo

Young girls wear beaded head band as part of their initiation, the spiral designs/ symbols on the band represent the eye of an earth Nyama, the triangles designs are doors for other Nyama to enter the physical world, the beads colors are yellow, orange, white, red and black.

The African Mask

are used for three primary reasons, first the mask can be identify according to usage, Secret societies, Nyama, ancestor acknowledgement, Initiations, magical, wars, play and nearly always ceremonies rituals, dances, etc. second; styles, varying from the crud to portrait like naturalism to geometric or abstract stylizations, invoking specific emotion such as fear and base on animal and African features, either singly or in combination.

Third; masks intended to be worn with a ralphia straw or knitted costumes and beads, often worn above or below the face, masks not to be worn, hood like masks completely covering the head, masks resembling crown or hats and masks worn on ritual occasions as badges of membership In a secret society.

Function of the masks most masks were attached to raffia, straw, beads or knitted costumes, which covered the dancer’s body, different masks were used for different dances, some served as the ritual for boys and girls initiations, for the exorcism of Nyama, to invoke rain, fertility and to communication with the Nyama of the transformed African.

The physical aspect of the masks, the head represented the seat of wisdom it was the last refuge of the Nyama, before it was emitted from the body at the moment of transformation. Attention was paid to the face mask which stood for the body as a whole and the Nyama, like the ancestor figures a mask did not merely represent the Nyama, it was the Nyama.

Psychological significance of the mask, the transformed African returned as an ancestor figure, reassurance the family, the mask worn in a ceremony is used to communicate with the Nyama of the transformed African, to compel the Nyama to act in our favor.

The mask wearer became the Nyama, whether it was that of the protective animal whose qualities we coveted or the Nyama which would heal the sick. He underwent a complete change, a transformation. He lost his own identity and became the Nyama; he fulfilled his wish for omnipotence.

The significance of the mask, the mask was worn either by the adolescent or by some member of the secret society, the roll of the mask was to hide the wearer’s identity that the mask suggests or represent.

The mask also became the law, since judgment and ruling were pronounced by the mask wearer in the name of the ancestor or the ancestor Nyama. A great deal of these masks were adorned with beads